Day 43 - Monday June 20, 2011 - Washington, DC to Fort Lauderdale, FL

My last posting of this trip. Today my 5th around-the-world journey comes to an end. Home at last. It hits me every year that I enjoy all of the various other places on the planet - but there is absolutely no place like home in Fort Lauderdale. It is truly heaven to me.

On this trip, I have travelled on 17 flights for a total of almost 27,000 miles and on 1 ship for almost 2,000 miles. Almost 30,000 miles traveled around the world. I wish I had worn an odometer for this trip so I would know how far I have walked over the past 6+ weeks. I would imagine over 50 miles but it is hard to guage.

And I took 1,451 pictures over the last 6 weeks. The most in Istanbul and Paris, and the least during the days on the ship, Bulgaria and Romania. I'll really have to go some editing of those!

I visited 7 new countries this trip - Philippines, Malaysia, Nepal, Turkey, Bulgaria, Romania, and Ukraine. Revisits to Greece, Switzerland, and France. Good experiences in all.

It hits me that no matter where I travel, I realize that while our American way of life is pretty special, it isn't the only way.

We all share many common human traits - we have families that we love, we want to earn a living to provide for ourselves and our loved ones, we want to have enough to eat and drink, we want to have trust in our government (and we are disappointed when the government is corrupt or causes us to distrust it), we want to feel safe, we want jobs to earn a living, and we want access to good health care. Universal constants.

We may dress differently, live differently, eat differently, drive differently, sleep differently, and sometimes behave differently, but we hold more in common than we have differences. The things that matter the most are held in common. If only we could get beyond the other things that really don't matter.

I got up at 5:45 am and went over to the airport for my last flight - this time on US Airways - from Reagan to FLL. It was a zoo at the National Car Rental check in. That took a while. I checked my bag with US Airways and she wanted me to pay for an overweight bag (57.5 pounds) but I reminded her that I was first class. Security lines at Reagan were slow and a zoo. Very confusing.

Plane was a little late getting in but we loaded up and were on our way south. On arrival, I retrieved my bag, Terry was waiting for me to take me to the Venetian.

I got my bags in the condo - gosh is it good to be home - and then headed out to meet Tim for luch. It was good to see him as I've missed him so during my trip.

Now to plan my 6th Around-The-World Trip!!!!

Day 42 - Sunday June 19, 2011 - Fredericksburg, VA

Woke up at 6:30 - UGH - and turned over and slept until 8.

Made coffee and finished my laundry. It is good to have clean clothes again.

Chris and I discussed further renovations on his home. We went and had BBQ for lunch since I haven't had that in almost 2 months - it was good - along with sweet tea!

We went by Lowes and I ordered a Corian countertop for the vanity in Chris' half bath. That will finally finish the downstairs renovations that I started over a year ago but got sidetracked with various other projects. I am planning to coome back to do his upstairs guest bathroom and 2 guest rooms - lots of wallpaper to remove. Tim and I are planning a weekend in NYC and I'll come up early and do some of the renovations in either July or August.

We watched a movie on TV and then headed to the movies for a 4 pm movie - Super 8 - entertaining. An enjoyable time spent with my son.

After the movie we went to Mimi's for an early dinner and then I headed up the road to Washington, DC for the night. My flight leaves from Reagan Airport very early on Monday morning. So rather than having to get up at 4 am to get to DC on Monday I booked a hotel for the night. I also didn't want to risk running into DC work day traffic. So the Hampton Inn was very convenient to the airport and I stayed there for the night.

The traffic on I-95 in Fredericksburg was awful so I went up US 1 a ways and got on and had no trouble from there. Used the express lanes and got all of the way to the Pentagon. No trouble finding the Hampton Inn. Filled the car up with gas so that would be done. The Hampton upgraded me to a king suite on the top floor - nice digs.

Even though I'm in DC, I'll still have to get up about 6 am tomorrow so I was off to bed a little before 11. At this point, I'm very anxious and excited to get home tomorrow. Such a great trip and adventure I've had.

Day 41 - Saturday June 18, 2011 - Paris, France to Washington, DC - then to Fredericksburg, VA

Woke up at 6:30 to finish packing and head to Charles de Gaulle Airport for my 16th flight of this trip. I travel almost 4,000 miles today from Paris to Washington Dulles. (Hate that airport!).

Went to the executive lounge and it was closed - I forgot that they only do breakfast Monday to Friday. So I made coffee in my room to get me going.

Finished packing and checked out a little after 8 to allow myself about 60 minutes to get the CDG. The check-out line at the Marriott was all of the way across the entire lobby and moving at a snail's pace! I was surprised. Finally I asked the concierge about the delay. He got me an "Express Check-out" form and I left that and the key with him and took off for the metro.

I bought another metro ticket last night since I lost my pass so I went right through the turnstile and a train was waiting. I had to use the elevator since I had all of my bags with me - and it was the slowest elevator in the world - so figured there was no way that train would wait. And it was a "direct" train to CDG too! But the elevator finally got me down and I got right on the train! I had looked up the schedules for Saturday and this was one of the few "direct" trains. It makes no stops after Gare du Nord until it gets to CDG. The direct train is not only faster but it's a lot safer as there are some "shady characters" that get on and off the trains in the neighborhoods between Gare du Nord and CDG - actually in the same neighborhood where I was yesterday at the Basilica! This was a good suggestion by Al to take the direct train and I'll remember that for next time. (www.SNCF.com).

I got on the tram from the RER station at CDG and went to Terminal 1. I checked in with United and went to the lounge to await my flight. The flight was scheduled to leave at 12:25 but I left the lounge at 11 since the security at the gate can be a huge line at times. But today it wasn't an issue - breezed right through.

Security and boarding were both uneventful. We loaded on - and the plane was packed. TOok off on time. Drinks - lunch - nap - 2 movies - and a snack before we landed. We traveled almost 4,000 miles. Landed 10 minutes early at Dulles but that airport is awful. We had to walk and walk and walk - only to find out that we then had to get on a bus to get us to immigration. The lines in immigration were HUGE. So after more than an hour, I finally was through immigration, retrieved my bag that was waiting when I got there, and went to get my rental car at National.

Picked out my car from Emerald Aisle and headed down the causeway to 495 and then to 95. Traffic was awful in a couple of places. Arrived at Chris' house in Fredericksburg a little after 5. It was good to see him.

Did 3 loads of laundry so I'll finally have some clean clothes. About 7:30 we went to a great italian restaurant in downtown Fredericksburg. Too much to eat for me - plus I was fading fast.

We got home about 9, I updated email and put the final load of clothes in the washer, and then went to bed. A long, long day for me.

Day 40 - Friday June 17, 2011 - Paris, France

Top: Inside La Madelaine - Used as a church in Paris.

Middle: Inside the Basilica St. Denis - the burial place for most of the kings and queens of France. This is the tomb of Francois I. Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette's graves are in the basement crypt.

Bottom: The heart of Louis XVII.

Last night I closed the black out shade and it worked. I woke up at 6:30 but turned over until 7:45. A good night's sleep at last - but I'm wanting to be home in my own bed now.

Had breakfast in the Executive Lounge and then took a train to go across town to look at a couple of rental properties that Diane had sent to me. One big problem - on the train I looked at the information and I had the streets but no house numbers. Oh well.

I had to change trains at Montparnasse and had to use one of the very long moving sidewalks to get from one terminal to another. South Africa had a three-dimensional display over the entire passage advertising their country - beautiful pictures and scenery all in 3-D. They handed you 3-D glasses when you got on the sidewalk and took them back when you got off. Unique.

Since I didn't have the addresses, I went to La Madeleine. Beautiful structure and the inside is gorgeous. Beautiful flowers all over the front steps. Left there and went to Fauchon - which used to be a great food market with ducks, chickens, rabbits, pigs and all kinds of other animals hanging up and fresh produce. But it has become very commercial - didn't see any of the old displays that I liked.

Left there a little before 11 and headed to The Louvre on foot. Enroute at Palais Royal they had a booth on Alsace up with all kinds of wines, cheeses, and other items unique to Alsace. The smells of the cheeses were wonderful. Lingered there a bit and then continued on to Al Stewart's flat to meet him for lunch.

I stopped at a little store across from the Louvre and bought 3 scarves (made of crinkly material) that all of the French men are wearing. Looks great - and it actually did feel good against my neck with the overcast chilly weather today.

I arrived there right on time whereas the other night I was "retard fasionable". He laughed. He had several choices for lunch but we decided on one within walking distance at The Bastille. We set off on foot and went into a church along the way that has old graffiti: "La Republic Francaise ou la mort" (A free republic of France or death). That's cool that they saved that.

We arrived at Leon de Bruxelles right at The Bastille round-about. The moules and frites were delicious. Great lunch and very reasonable for Paris. This restaurant started in the little alley in Brussels that I love that is just packed with seafood restaurants. Now they have expanded to other cities.

Al and I walked back to the Hotel de Ville and I bid him farewell. Will see him soon back in Ft Lauderdale. I took the metro to the Champs d'Elysee, and changed trains to get to St. Denis. The Basilica St. Denis is the next to the last stop on this line and is the location of the burial sites for most of the French kings, queens, and other royals. Clovis I (1st king of France) is buried here as are Louis XVI, Marie-Antoinette, Louis XVIII, and Francois I. Beautiful church and stained-glass windows. They had the sanctuary set up for a concert that is happening either tonight or this weekend.

Spent the afternoon marveling at the neat tombs of the royals. Then decided to head back to Paris. So where is my subway pass? Looked everywhere and it's gone!!!! I thought I put it in my jacket pocket so it either fell out or someone picked my pocket. Nothing else missing. So I bought a 1.70 euro ticket to get back all of the way across town to the hotel.

Arrived back at the hotel in time for "cocktail hour" in the lounge, so changed clothes and put shorts on for a while. My feet are killing me again, so I may not go far tonight.

Had my red wine in the lounge and snacks. Talked to a couple from Chicago and their daughter for along time. Seems like American politics is a favotite topic. I gave them some restaurant recommendations and left at 9 to find my own restaurant. There was ONE criteria tonight - DO THEY HAVE ILE FLOTTANTE? I found the Au Vin des Rues Restaurant and they met the criteria. Of course they sat me at a table SQUEEZED between 2 other tables. Typical French.

I had a great dinner. The American couple of my left didn't want to talk but the French couple from the south of France on my right were very talkative - so between the French and English we did just fine. You see, if you TRY, you can make it work. It was FUN.

My entrecote was actually lean and good. I had red wine. And of course ile flottante - it was SO GOOD. And the French couple died laughing that this was the reason I came to this restaurant. But none of the other restaurants had it on their menu!

Finished dinner about 10:30 and walked back to the hotel. Checked the train schedule to CDG and it looks like I need to get the 9 am train. I checked the fair and "mon dieur" - I need 8.7 euros and I only have 5.60 left. My 5 day pass would have gotten me back but I lost it! Merde! So I used my credit card while the station attendant was there for a ticket for "demain" (tomorrow). I can't believe it was 8.7. Oh well.

It was after 11 pm and my blog is updated and I'm pooped. Off to bed - ready to head home tomorrow.

Bon Soir!

Day 39 - Thursday June 16, 2011 - Paris, France

Top: The Cathedral Notre Dame in Reims, France. This is called the Coronation Cathedral as all of the kings of France (except 2) were coronated here. Magnificent.

Middle: Some of the very beautiful stained glass in the Reims Cathedral.

Bottom: A "cave" at Tattinger Champagne Winery. Each "cave" holds 70,000 bottles of champagne. I got to sample some - yum - good!

A very, very busy and long day!

I woke up at 5:45 am! It seems that it gets dark at 11 pm and light before 6 am. A short night. I had to get up early today to get my train to Reims, France - only a 45 minute train ride almost directly east of Paris on the TGV - the French fast train.

I went to the Executive Lounge at 6:30 when it opened for breakfast. They do a good job there and what a deal - it's free for me!

Left the hotel about 7:30 to make sure I was able to get my tickets at the Gare de L'est. Took the Metro to Gare du Nord and walked the 2 blocks to the Gard de L'est. Checked my trains on the ticket machines for the schedule and wrote it down. But the machines won't issue my tickets as US credit cards don't have a "chip" that is required in France. So I have to go to the ticket office. Of course I found out that they don't open until 8 am (wouldn't you know!).

Had a pain au raisins from the station patisserie while I was waiting for the ticket office to open. Got in line and gave the attendant my paper with my trains written down. I actually did most of the transaction in French - proud of me! Then she asked for my ID for my credit card - which of course I didn't have. No passport and no drivers license - "Merde"! So I changed from 1st class to 2nd class and used my euros to pay for the ticket to Reims.

They only post the trains 20 minutes before departure which is aggravating for someone like me who wants to be there early and make sure I'm in the right place. Nevertheless, it worked out fine. At 8:40 they posted the gate for the train and I went right on for the 8:57 departure. Found my reserved seat on the car to which I was assigned and at the stroke (literally) of 8:57 the train started its journey. A short 45 minute train ride.

Not too much to see and it was very cloudy on the ride to Reims so I snoozed. It had been a short night. Reims is in the middle of the Champagne Region of France. I had never visited here before so this will be a great new experience for me.

The TGV arrived right on time in Reims. It was a beautiful walk into the middle of town. Clean, fresh, beautiful. In the distance I can see the spires of the cathedral Notre Dame. So I head there. I put my iPod on and started listening to English Choral music as I walked through the city. A beautiful piece was playing as I approached the cathedral - and my thoughts were "Oh my god!". It is magnificent. Some of the outsidde has been restored but most is dirty with years of grim and dirt. A constant project keeping a structure such as this pristine.

Went inside and sat for a while just taking it all in. There is new stained glass that has been installed in some of the windows. The John D. Rockafella Foundation paid for some but Al tells me that Germany sponsored some of the windows - as guess as reparations many years later for the damage they caused during WWII. Beautiful colors and each window tells a story.

I sat for a while and someone started playing an organ - not the big organ unfortunately - but it was beautiful. There were many signs up and on the back of each I discovered there was an English translation so I learned a lot about the windows and the cathedral. It was the site of the baptism of Clovis in the mid
1000's. Every King of France since then was coronated at this cathedral (except for 2 kings and I don't remember which they were). So it is known as The Coronation Cathedral - the Westminster Abbey of France!

A truly stunning structure - very enjoyable. Took a walk around and looked at some of the other interesting structure in Reims. Then headed to the champagne "maisons". It was a bit of a hike but I made it to Veuve Cliquot Ponsardin. Unfortunately, when I got there I found out that they only do tours "by prior appointment". So I went to Tattinger and got on an English tour that had just started. A great visit. We were like 4-5 stories under ground - in the "caves". Each "cave" holds 70,000 bottles of champagne and many were full. And this isn't their only place of business. Beautiful tour of "the underground". They make Methusula bottles of champagne, but only make Nebukanesar bottles on special orders (that's the one Tim had in China several years ago!).

A fun tour - and we got a complimentary glass of Tattinger champange at the end. I met a couple from Wisconsin who were nice and engaging. They are supporting the recall of their governor - and I asked them for help in recalling the Florida governor who is cutting services and funds for education. What's going on in our country? But enough of that.

Headed outside and it was about 1 pm and threatening rain. I walked about 15 minutes back into Reims Centre - and low and behold it started raining. So I got back to the cathedral and found Le Cardinal Restaurant and a table for one outside under an umbrella overlooking the cathedral. Beautiful. Had a great 2 hour late lunch. Very filling.

The man at the next table to me was a riot. He was Dutch and talking out loud to a table of 5 Dutch people at the next table. He asked me to help him with his English and he ended up calling me "ma professeur d'anglais"! He switched works in conversation between Flemish, French, and English and I had a hard time keeping up at times - "Quoi?" (What?). Then he would explain in English or use other words. Actually we had a few interchanges in French so my French hasn't been too bad this trip. I feel more confident with it - plus - who cares if you make a mistake?

Lunch was delicious and filling. It was 3:30 when I finished. I bid my next-table-mate adieu (Au revoir) and headed back through town to the train station. Went by the Hotel de Ville - beautiful. Easy walk back to the station. The train was right on time and again only a 45 minute direct route to Gare de L'est in Paris. Took the "6" train and then the "5" train to get back directly in front of the hotel.

Went to the Executive Lounge and had white wine and relaxed for a while. Ended up having a vegetable plate and bread and cheese with my wine about 7 pm. That was my dinner tonight - not hungry plus I'm pooped.

Got back to the room at 8 and relaxed for the rest of the evening. Am pulling the black out curtains tonight and plan to sleep in tomorrow. Nothing planned except lunch with Al Stewart. My last day in Paris. Gosh, I love this city. May stop by a real estate office and inquire about a rental tomorrow????

Bon Soir!

Day 38 - Wednesday June 15, 2011 - Paris, France

Top: Cimetiere du Montparnasse. Very large tombs and some very famous people buried here including Guy du Maupassant and Jean Paul Sartre.

Middle: The Palais du Luxembourg - where the French Senat is located.

Bottom: The beautiful colored glass dome at the Brasserie Printemps in Paris. Lunch there was delicious.

Ah Paris!!!! I don't know what it is about this city that I love so.

I woke up at 2 am to see an almost full moon rising over the city. It peaked through the clouds and woke me up - it was magnificent.

Slept until 6:45 - went to the Executive Lounge for much-needed coffee and breakfast. Piddled around for a short while and then headed out to explore the 14th arrondisement where I'm staying. I have never explored here.

First stop was the Cimetiere du Montparnasse, near the tall Montparnasse Tower. Not as elaborate as the Cimetiere Per la Chaise but interesting. Many notables buried here including Guy de Maupassant and Jean Paul Sartre.

Then I took a stroll by the Observatoire de Paris, never had been there. Interesting building. On the way I passed a "patisserie" and just had to stop for one of the best "pain aux raisins" that I've ever had - it was so good.

Then I walked a short ways to the Jardin du Luxembourg and the Palais du Luxembourg. Many people sitting around the beautiful grounds. I went to the Orangerie (never had been there before) and they had a contemporary art exhibit that was really interesting. Spent some time there enjoying the unusual art.

Headed back by the Senat Building (part of the Palais du Luxembourg) and on the way stopped to watch a group of people doing tai chi - love that.

Then I used my subway pass to get across town to the 9th arrondisement near the Opera House. Took me 3 trains to get there. I went to Galeries Lafayette for lunch in their large restaurant that is under a huge multi-colored glass dome - only to realize that the multi-colored dome at Galeries Lafayette is in their main lobby - not their restaurant. I remembered the domed restaurant was at Printemps - next door - so I headed there.

I got a table under the dome - friendly service and delicious food. I had the best cold tomato soup I've ever had. Delicious ham and melon with a carafe of wine. Yummy!

Then took the train to Gare de Nord to find out about trains to Reims. I stopped at the Information Center and she thought I was saying "Rome". I finally wrote it down and she laughed and pronounced it for me - didn't sound like Reims to me. Nevertheless, I found out that the trains leave from the Gare de L'est. So I went there and used a ticket machine to get the schedules. A TGV (fast train) leaves a little before 9 am tomorrow and will return at 5:15. Since it is a direct fast train it is only 45 minutes to get there. So that is my Thursday in France - a visit to Reims (not Rome!). Excited about that.

Took 2 more trains to get back to the Marriott. Went to the lounge to get something cold to drink. By then it was almost 5 pm so I took a disco nap, showered, dressed and headed out again to visit Al Stewart in the Marais. Drinks at Al's flat and dinner at Les Trois Petit Cochons (The Three Little Pigs). I think I've had dinner there before and it should be excellent.

Stopped for a glass of wine in the lounge and left the hotel at 6 pm. I ended up going to Les Halles where there is a lot of construction started to update the structure - much needed change. Arrived at Al's about 6:45 and we had cocktails and enjoyed catching up. He's leaving Paris on Tuesday to return to Ft Lauderdale. We left about 8:15 and walked to Les Trois Petit Cochons - I hadn't been there before but it was wonderful. Only had 2 courses which filled me up and then coffee. Good. They served cherries in vodka at the end that were wonderful.

We walked around the area for a while but by the time we finished it was after 11 pm. I wanted to be sure I got a train back to the Marriott so we walked to Les Halles and I bid Al a good night and got my train back to the hotel. In bed by midnight so I can get some sleep before my adventure to Reims tomorrow.

Day 37 - Tuesday June 14, 2011 - Geneva, Switzerland to Paris, France

Picture: One of the many upright pianos on the streets of Geneva, Switzerland. These are in preparation for La Fete de Musique which is celebrated all over France and Switzerland on June 21 (longest day of the year) each year. Everyone comes out in the streets and plays all kinds of music - all over the entire country. FUN!

Today I fly on flights 13 and 14 of my around-the-world trip. I fly on Swiss Air from Geneva to Zurich which is only 143 miles, and then take another Swiss Air flight for the 297 miles to Paris, France - Charles de Gaulle Airport.

I woke up about 6:30 thanks to the garbage pickup in Geneva. Boy were they loud! Had breakfast in the restaurant and then finished packing. A quick last walk around Geneva - many good memories here from the mid 1990's.

Checked out of the hotel and headed the 2 blocks to the Central Train Station. An easy walk. Got a train to the airport within 10 minutes and checked in. Since my connection in Zurich is so short, the agent suggested that I leave on the earlier flight so I'd have more connection time. That was fine with me as I either have to wait here or there!

Went to the business lounge and relaxed and actually had a snack for lunch. Still not very hungry after that big meal at Restaurant des Armures yesterday!

We loaded on the Swiss Air plane about 1:30 and left at 2. While it was only a 30 minute flight, the flight attendants served us lunch up front! Amazing the service they offer in Europe versus what we receive in the US.

Beautiful scenery of the mountains and lakes flying over. Got to Zurich on time and went to the Lounge for a drink and to wait for the flight to Paris. Plane was late getting in but they loaded up quickly and we were off to Paris. Yet another meal served on a short trip!

Arrival in Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport was uneventful. Luggage came up - changed my remaining Swiss francs to euros and went to the RER train. Shuttle to the RER train station - bought a 5 day pass (like $75), and the train arrived within 4 minutes. Surprisingly, the train wasn't the crowded, which always concerns me here when I have my luggage on the subway.

The RER took me all of the way to Renfert-Rochereau station and it is a 2 1/2 block walk to the Marriott Paris Rive-Gauche Hotel. Nice place. I'm a Gold Marriott member so they put me on the top floor with access privileges to the Executive Lounge and free internet. What a deal - especially since the room cost me nothing since I used Marriott points for the entire stay.

I was really tired but went to the Executive Lounge for free wine and used the internet. Talk about frustrating. The french keyboard is different than in the US. And the German and Swiss is different yet again. You have to "shift" in France to get the numbers and the "a", "m", "w", "comma", "period", and other key items are all in different places. Talk about frustrating. I caught up on email but went to the front desk and established my free connection so now I'm using MY computer where all of the keys are where they should be!!!!

Called Tim on Skype for 20 minutes - good to catch up since the internet connection from Switzerland was so poor.

It stayed light in Paris until after 10:30 - I'm further north yet and it is almost June 21!

Off to bed - with great expectations for a good day exploring more of Paris on Wednesday.

Day 36 - Monday June 13, 2011 - Geneva, Switzerland

Top: The Jet d'Eau in Lake Leman. It shoots water 140 meters in the air.

Middle: The Monument Brunswick - a mausoleum to Duke Charles of Brunswick.

Bottom: Saint Peter's Cathedral in Old Town Geneva

A full day of touring in Geneva. I awoke to very cloudy skies and very chilly temperatures. I figured that the views wouldn't be so good up high in the Alps at the Matterhorn with the low clouds - and I didn't have warm clothes as I figured it would be COLD up there - and I don't like being cold. So I decided to stay in Geneva and tour around for my free day here.

Had breakfast in the hotel restaurant, then got ready and headed out before very many people were stirring. Today is a religious holiday in Switzerland so everything is closed. I headed to Lake Leman and walked across one of the pedestrian bridges to the Old Town. Beautiful architecture and sites everywhere. Walked around Saint Peter's Cathedral that was built in the early 1500's The Maccabee Chapel was built in the 1400's. All restored in the 1990's and it is beautiful. Sits up high so the steeple is visible from Lake Leman towering over the city.

Did some window shopping in the city and walked a ways up the north side of the lake. Went to several memorials enroute to the Central Train Station to find out where I need to be tomorrow to get back to the airport and what the schedule is. It looks like there are several trains mid day that leave every 15 minutes or so. Very convenient and my "hotel pass" let's me ride it for free - what a deal!

Headed back by the hotel to get my jacket as it was still chilly. Headed to the lake and the jet d'eau was on spewing water 140 meters into the air. Beautiful but the winds were blowing the spray like crazy. It was on for 20 minutes and then they turned in off and I never saw it come back on all day.

Went to the Monument Brunswick which is a mausoleum erected in memory of Duke Charles of Brunswick who left his fortune to the city of Geneva. Walked along the waterfront and enjoyed the sun that finally came out from behind the clouds and it felt good. Enjoyed the people watching. Walked up near to where the UN headquarters is located and caught a ferry using my "hotel pass" and went to the other side of the lake. Then took the ferry back to the Mont Blanc Bridge. From there I changed boats and took another boat to the Old City Centre.

Walked from the pier back to St. Peter's Cathedral and went in this time as it was open. Visited the Chapel of the Maccabees too.

Then walked around looking for an "early dinner" location. Started to stop at the restaurant across from the Hotel d'Ville. But I went down a side street and found Restaurant des Amures. I ate here many many years ago with my colleagues from DuPont. Bill and Hillary Clinton ate here in 1994 and there is a plaque on the wall outside commemorating that will a replica of the letter President Clinton sent to the owner.

My lunch/dinner was fantastic. I first ordered a 1/2 bottle of St Emilion Grand Cru Classe - it was wonderful - and still water. Then I ordered a plate of racclette - melted cheese served with small boiled potatoes, gherkin pickles, and small onions. Yum. Then I had lamp with pomme frites and vegetables and french bread. Finished it off with a creme brulee that was excellent. YUM! Most likely no dinner needed tonight.

I had thought I had too many swiss francs but not after that lunch. It was the equivalent of $150!!!! But worth it.

By this time it was after 4 pm, so I walked around the Old Town a little more and headed back to the hotel about 5 via a tram from the Old Town. The tram system is easy to figure out and I was there in only 2 stops.

My feet were tired so they needed a rest after all of that walking so I headed back to the hotel for a while. Went out later for a last stroll along the lake. It stays light here until almost 10 pm which is cool.

On June 21 they will be celebrating the summer equinox (is it equinox or solstice?). Anyway, in France and Switzerland, they celebrate the longest day of the year with La Fete de La Musique. Everywhere people come out into the streets and play instruments and music of all types. Tim and I experienced this in Lyon several years ago. It was fun. Unfortunately I'll miss it in France this year. But in Geneva they have a clever approach. They have upright pianos located in many places throughout the city. Anyone walking down the street can stop and play and they do. I stopped several times to listen to some very talented musicians. Wonderful thing they do. I'd like to experience this again some other time.

A great visit to Geneva, Switzerland.

Day 35 - Sunday June 12, 2011 - Geneva, Switzerland

Top: Genevieve and Richard Schneider with our big plate of "filet de perches" on Lake Leman outside of Geneva, Switzerland.

Middle: Me on the pier at Le Port Restaurant after eating a lot of filet de perches!

Bottom: One of the many old castles we saw along the French and Swiss coast of Lake Leman going to and from Evian, France.

Up at 7 and down to the cafe in the hotel for "petit dejeuner". I love it that I'm back in "french-speaking" territory. "Bonjour", "Merci", "S'il vous plais", etc. Love this language but wish I could speak more of it. I now have a week to practice!

Had my petit dejeuner and headed out for a short walk in the Old City. Didn't have much time as Genevieve and Richard Schneider picked me up at 11 for a filet de perches (perch from the Lake) lunch at a local restaurant. Genevieve and Richard live in Unit 514 in the Venetian - next door to our first apartment there.

They arrived a little before 11 and it was good seeing them both. And we were off - to the French side of Lake Leman (sometimes mistakenly called Lake Geneva). A beautiful ride on the side of the lake where I had never been.

We went to their favorite restaurant on the lake. They sometimes take their boat from Geneva there and dock for lunch but today was a bit too windy to do that. They had reservations and we got our table. A kir to start, then red wine with filet de perches - a HUGE plate of them - french fries - green beans - and ratatouille. Followed by a pastry with strawberries and creme anglais. All delicious. And we ate it all, of course.

After lunch we headed further into France to Evian, headquarters and "the source" of Evian water. Beautiful, beautiful quaint town. We went to a museum (a former "therme spa") that had an art exhibit from the royal collection of the Prince of Leichtenstein. Brueghel, Rembrandt, Rubens, Biedermeiers, etc. Beautiful collection - especially the pictures done on copper with small thin pieces of marble - unbelieveable. There was one painting of Princess Marie Franziska von Liechtenstein at the age of two that was precious. She had a head full of curls and was holding her doll baby - precious.

We stopped in a liquor store where the lady running it was very knowledgeable. She gave me samples of an aperitif I didn't know - believe it was Argenac - it is like a cognac. I had the 12 year old and then she gave me a 30 year old sample. Delicious. The older the better.

From Evian we headed back toward Switzerland stopping in several towns along the southern coast of Lake Leman. The lake is about 60 miles long and 10 miles wide at the widest point - which is between Evian, France and Lausanne, Switzerland.

We stopped at Thonon and walked around an old castle that is now a beautiful hotel. Lots of Sunday drivers and the traffic was heavy in places. We went by Yvoire that is a "walking only" ancient city on the lake - we didn't stop as there was no place to park.

We arrived back in Geneva about 7 pm - a full day of touring. I really appreciate Genevieve and Richard's hospitality and commentary in English of the countryside. They invited me for a racclette cheese dinner but I'm tentatively planning to get up early and go to Zermatt - so unfortunately I had to decline.

Back to the hotel for a short rest. Not really hungry after such a large lunch of delicious filet de perches, so I got something light and then back to the hotel for the night. Tomorrow a full day of touring planned - who knows where the day may take me!!!!

Love this place - and French!

Day 34 - Saturday June 11, 2011 - Athens, Greece

Above: The Parthenon on the Acropolis in Athens, Greece

Below: A temple with beautifully preserved statues that serve as columns.

Woke up at 5:30 and we were already docked in the Port of Athens at Piraeus. Never heard us coming in. Showered, dressed and went for coffee in the restaurant and a last stroll around the deck of the ship.

Waited in my room until my unloading number was called a little before 7:45. Retrieved my bag and followed my guide to a bus that will take us on a short tour through Athens and then to the Acropolis. We got to see a lot of the historical sites. Traffic wasn't too bad given that it was Saturday morning.

We arrived at the Acropolis and began the hike up the hill on what seems like very slippery marble steps and walkways. The entrance has been changed since I was here last. And access to the buildings is very limited. A lot of restoration work is underway and you can readily see where they have restored sections with beautiful new white marble against the old stained surfaces. I was surprised how much more of this structure they have been able to put back together.

We had a little bit of free time so I did a sprint around the top taking pictures, and then returned to the bus. We headed to the relatively new airport on a new freeway that is so much better than the first time I was in Athens.

Checked in with Swiss Air for my flight to Geneva and went to the lounge to catch up on email and internet things. Today is my 13th flight and I'll travel 1,070 miles from Athens to Geneva non-stop on Swiss Air. I hadn't flown on Swiss Air in years and they did impress me. The service was impeccable - the flight attendant even gave me a shoulder and neck massage when she saw me rubbing my sore neck. It was heavenly. Lunch was good.

I got to see The Matterhorn outside of Zermatt as we got close to Geneva. Then I saw Mount Blanc as we approached Geneva. The Swiss Alps are truly beautiful.

No immigration - got my luggage - and noticed a machine that gives travelers a "free ticket" to take the train from the airport to the city. So I did that. Went to the station that is adjacent to the airport and got on the next train. All of the trains at this station stop at Geneve City. It was a 7 minute train ride - and my hotel is not far from the station so I walked there. Small hotel that offers free internet, breakfast, and a transportation card that allows me to ride the buses, train, and boats that operate within the city. I may do that just to see more of the city that I haven't seen.

Got settled and went out for an evening walk. It's June 11 and many people have on heavy coats still. I guess we are pretty far north and also at a high elevation. Went for a long walk. Beautiful city - I'd forgotten how much I like this place (even though it is a very expensive city). I'm planning to go through the old city again tomorrow.

Got a lite bite to eat and then went back to the hotel a little before 10. The sun was just setting then! Caught up on CNN and then went to bed - am really tired after getting up so early and travelling much of the day.

Day 33 - Friday June 10, 2011 - Mykonos, Greece

Top: Beautiful Mykonos, Greece as seen from the harbor

Bottom: I was able to have a short visit and coffee with our friend Yiannis at Fato a Mano Restaurant.

Up at 6:15 just as the sun was rising. Beautiful view over the now dark blue waters of the Aegean. Up to get my morning coffee and sat on deck watching the day begin. Did laps for 30 minutes around the track. Need to do something to lose some weight after this trip!

We anchored in the Mykonos Harbor about 9. We left the ship about 10 and I went to the bus for the beach excursion. A 25 minute ride to Elia Beach. Only about half full today – it is early in their summer season. They were still putting up the straw huts on the beach. Enjoyed beautiful Elia Beach until 2 and then the bus took us back to the city.

I asked our guide to let me off at “the upper traffic circle” like Tim and I did last summer. Walked downhill to the Elysium Hotel where Tim and I stayed last summer. Lots of people around the pool. I had Emile make me a drink at the bar and then Alex served me a delicious lunch on the balcony overlooking Mykonos City. We remembered them from last year. An enchanting view and a delicious lunch – expensive but delicious.

Walked down the hill to Mykonos City and found Fato a Mano Restaurant. I walked in and our friend Yiannis didn’t recognize me – he greeted me with “BonJour”! I gave him a big hug and we were glad to see each other. We sat and talked for a while. He seems to be doing great and I’m hopeful his “big business deal” will come to fruition for him soon. Such a positive person. Enjoyed my visit with Yiannis a lot.
Took the tender back to the ship about 6 pm and showered and dressed for dinner.

Started packing as my bag needs to be out by 11 tonight. Had drinks at one of the bars and watched the sun set over the Agean Sea. Beautiful. Watched as they loaded up the tenders back on ship and dismantled the loading platform. Then went to dinner in the dining room. Had Jeffrey from the Philippines again. Got a table by the window and watched as we sailed out of Mykonos.

Finished dinner about 10. Finished packing and put my bag in the hallway for pickup. And then to bed as I need to get up very early tomorrow. We are due into Athens (Piraeus) at 5 am.

Day 32 - Thursday June 9, 2011 - On The Black Sea throgh the Bosporus to the Marmara Sea and the Dardanelles Strait

Top: The huge Topkopi Palace as seen as we sailed out of the Bosporus Strait.

Middle: Ancient fortifications on the Bosporus Strait just outside of Istanbul

Bottom: The Blue Mosque as seen from the southwestern end of The Bosporus Strait

As planned, I woke up at 6 and went up on deck with my coffee. Not many people stirring – yet. Took in the last of the Black Sea – the color has changed noticeably – much more dark green rather than turquoise that I saw earlier. Did 15 laps on the track as I watched us slowly approach the narrow channel known as The Bosporus Strait that connects the Black Sea to the Aegean Sea. We entered the Bosporus about 7:00 a.m. and they had told us there would be a commentary as we passed through, but none was provided. By 8:45 we were by Topkopi Palace, Aya Sofia, and The Blue Mosque. Beautiful views of the city of Istanbul. And then we pushed on into the Sea of Marmara that will lead us to the Dardanelles and then into the Aegean Sea later this evening. Waters are still very, very calm but greenish rather than blue as I expected. The seas turned lighter shades of green as we moved west-south-west.

Had a late breakfast, caught up on email, and then found a place out of the sun to read for a while. Went to hear the historian talk about Athens at 11. Found a quiet place to start reading my new James Patterson book that I had picked up in Bangkok and did that until mid afternoon. Had a late lite lunch in the restaurant at 2:30 to tide me over until my dinner at 9. I was bummed out though – the wine connoisseur dinner that I was invited to was cancelled. I called them back to get a reservation at Aqualina only to be told the restaurant was full. “So if the restaurant is filled, why is the connoisseur dinner cancelled?” I asked. They “found” me a table at 9 pm for dinner.

Enjoyed time by the pool and on my private balcony – reading and napping. Went to the Sun Deck at 5:30 as we entered the Dardanelle Strait. Another narrow passage similar to the Bosporus – full of large cargo ships and tankers going both ways. A pilot boat came alongside again so the pilot could escort us through the narrow and curvy passage to the Aegean Sea.

At the western end of the Dardanelles are memorials to Turkish, English, Australian, and New Zealand troops who died here (believe before WW I. Also here is the site that is believed to be the former City of Troy and a lot of excavation has been done. The legendary Trojan Horse event happened here and one of the cities has a replica of “the horse” on display but we couldn’t make it out from the ship.

Went to the Looking Glass and watched as the sun set over the Aegean. Had my late dinner reservations at Aqualina and I was not disappointed. Daniel from Romania was my waiter and he made all of the recommendations that I accepted: Amuse bouche was a black truffle potato salad that was spectacular. Then a cold seafood platter – a bouillabaisse - lobster thermador – and lastly a grand marnier soufflé. Spectacular dinner – and very filling. Diet here I come (when I get home)!

Daniel was a very, very proud Romanian. He has one more day on the ship and then he heads home to his wife and 2 children. He explained that The Quest is registered in Yalta and it is the flag of Yalta that flies over the ship. He also talked about the former dictator of Romania (Concesque???) and the abuses that the citizens endured. Everyone was glad when he and his wife were shot after a very short trial.
Went to the Mosaic Lounge and listened to Jim Badger sing.

Left at 11 and headed to bed so I can get up and watch the run rise over the Aegean as we sail into Mykonos.

Day 31 - Wednesday June 8, 2011 - From Yalta Across The Black Sea to Greece

Pictures: The Azamara Quest – my home away from home in the Black Sea for 10 days

I woke up at 6:30 am and we were still docked in Yalta. We are scheduled to leave at 7 am. I turned over and when I woke back up at 7:30 we were under way – not too far off of the coast of Yalta. We will be sailing back across the Black Sea all day today and tomorrow. We arrive in Mykonos on Friday morning. So today will be a day of relaxation - for reading, napping, Sudoku puzzles, eating, and drinking.

And I did just that. Had a late lunch, finished my second Sue Grafton book and finished my new book: “Buddha: His Life and Teachings and Impact on Humanity”. I learned a lot from my Buddha book but am going to have to read it again. My favorite chapter was “Suchness”, an interesting concept . . . “Anything incomplete is carried by the mind forever and forever. Anything complete is dropped. Mind has a tendency to carry the incomplete things in the hope that some day there may be an opportunity to complete them. You are still waiting for the wife to come back, or for the husband, or for the days that have gone – you are still waiting. You have not transcended the past. And because of such a loaded past, you cannot live in the present. Your present is a mess because of the past, and your future I going to be the same – because the past will become more and more heavy. Every day it is becoming heavier and heavier. When you really accept, in that attitude of suchness there is no grudge, you are not helpless. Simply you understand that this is the nature of things.” Makes you think!

Went to 3 lectures – one on the Borsporus by the guest lecturer on board, one on Mykonos Town, and one on Piraeus (port of Athens). So to finish off a “day of culture”, I went to another piano concert by the very talented Japanese woman, Tomono Kawamura – she was EXCELLENT. Had a late dinner in the restaurant (I’m still eating too much!), read a little in the cabin and went to bed about 11. Expect to get up early tomorrow so I can watch us enter the Bosporus Strait.

Day 30 - Tuesday June 7, 2011 - Yalta, Ukraine

Top: The front of the Vorotsov Palace in Alupka, Ukraine

Middle: The Swallow’s Nest Castle overlooking the Black Sea

Bottom: Livonia Palace – the last home of Tzar Nicholas II and Alexandra

I woke up at 5 and went ahead and got up. Put my gym clothes on and went to the “track” on the Sun Deck. I did 15 revolutions. It says that 13 are a nautical mile which is more than a regular mile. Had my mueslix and coffee when the restaurant opened at 6. Enjoyed watching us come into the Yalta Harbor. Beautiful setting with the Crimean Mountains protecting it to the north. They say the climate is sub-tropical and there are even palm trees here – never would have thought that.

Met my Yalta Palaces Tour at 8 and we were off ahead of schedule. Alexey was our guide and very informative. He is actually a writer for the local newspaper and does tours as a side line. Very funny at times. But it seems to me that in Russian they seldom use “a”, “an”, or “the”. Lots of sentences like . . . “Tzar live in palace”, “Palace in forest”!

We headed up into the mountains to Vorontsov Palace in the town of Alupka. Beautiful mansion and very well maintained. This is where Winston Churchill stayed in 1945 during the summit with Roosevelt and Stalin. We visited the rooms where he stayed and ate. Beautiful gardens – and huge.

We then headed to Swallow’s Nest Castle that is on the edge of a cliff. Just a photo opportunity. There are plans to develop this site as it is stunning.

Then to Livadia Palace – the last home built for the the last Tzar – Nicholas II and Alexandra. This is where Roosevelt stayed and where the meetings were held in 1945. Many family pictures of the royal family. Beautiful gardens too.

Alexey pointed out many other sites during our tour. We got back to the ship about 1:30 – a full morning of touring and my feet and knees were killing me! I went for a quick lunch and then to the room to get my feet up and take a short nap.

Back out to the City of Yalta about 4. Walked along Roosevelt Street and Primorsky Boulevard to the Central Square. A beautiful walking city with lots of people strolling about. Took a slight detour and went to Alexander Nevsky Cathedral – another Russian Orthodox church. Beautiful gold spires. The church was closed but I enjoyed walking around the outside. I went to the far end of the promenade along the Black Sea. Found one of the rivers that flows from the mountains to the sea and walked far inland along the river. Lots of shops. I stopped several times and listened to sidewalk musicians – a Russian folk guitarist, a classical guitarist, and an accordionist. Really enjoyed that.

Then walked back toward the ship and went the other way to Massandra Beach – the largest beach in Yalta. A very, very rocky, pebbly beach – looked uncomfortable but it was packed. Massandra Palace is close by which was the home of Tzar Alexander III but I didn’t get there.

Headed back to the ship a little after 6. Ran into the San Diego couples and we caught up on the days touring activities. I had some wine, showered and went for my pre-dinner cocktail at 8 in the Lounge but David wasn’t there. Talked to a couple from Rhode Island for a while then headed to the dining room at 8:30. Jeffrey from Manila was my waiter again. There is a huge BBQ out by the pool so many people were eating there, but I enjoyed the dining room and ordering from the menu. Again it was good but nothing special.

After dinner I went back to the Lounge and listened to 2 sets by David – he is very entertaining and funny. Made several requests which he played – at least sort of played. He stops frequently in his songs to banter with the audience or tell stories where are entertaining.

Off to bed about 11:30 and put the DO NOT DISTURB sign on my door. I’m going to rest my knees and feet tonight.

Day 29 - Monday June 6, 2011 - Sevastopol, Ukraine

Top: The Pokrovsky Cathedral in Sevastopol, Ukraine

Bottom: Memorial steps in Sevastopol. Many, many things related to war and the fallen in this militarily important city.

We arrive in Sevastopol, Ukraine in early afternoon so I decided to sleep in for a change. I pulled the drapes almost shut but I woke up at 5 am to see the most beautiful sun rising over the Black Sea – bright gold and red and HUGE. Watched that very shortly and then went back to sleep – until 8 am. Couldn’t believe I slept that long, but my feet and knees were thanking me. Went for morning coffee and watched the sea. The Black Sea has turned a beautiful turquoise blue whereas before it was just a dark color. We have moved away from where the Danube and 3 other rivers empty into the Black Sea so I imagine this has an impact on the color of the sea. The sea is still very, very calm. Much calmer than what we see in the Caribbean.

Spent the morning either on my balcony reading or up on the pool deck. Nice and quiet and relaxing. I went to a lecture at 10 about Yalta – he reiterated that Odessa was about the city and architecture, Sevastopol is about the Crimean Peninsula, the military influence, and the Russian Black Sea Army, and Yalta is about palances and castles.

I read until about 1:30 to allow the other passengers to eat lunch and get off of the ship. Then I went to lunch in the restaurant and ate on the back deck overlooking the Sevastopol harbor. Beautiful view.

I left the ship a little after 2 and headed into the city. We are docked at the Grafskaya Wharf. While, Odessa is all about architecture and life-style, and Yalta is about palaces, Sevastopol is very “military oriented”. This is where the Russian Navy was based, and actually still is based here based on an agreement with Ukraine until 2014. Wonder what will happen then?

I walked by the Admiral Nakhimov Monument and by the Monument to the Scuttled Ships. Warning you – almost everything is about war and war heroes or the fallen. Beautiful waterfront with a viewing stand for military reviews in the harbor. Went by an outdoor drama amphitheatre in a small park. Then headed up the hill – first to the Monument to the Kazarsky, then the Russian Black Sea Fleet Museum.

After some wrong turns, I arrived at Vladimirsky Cathedral – the place where Russian admirals were buried. Beautiful inside but the structure is in dire need of repairs. Unfortunately, this is typical of a lot of these cities – they seem to be crumbling before our very eyes. We saw some restoration in Odessa but not much in any of these other cities. I saw some balconies that looked to me that they would fall if someone walked on them. I didn’t want to walk under them!

Left the Cathedral and went by the Main Post Office and ended up (by chance) at the Pokrovsky Cathedral. This is a Russian Orthodox Church with beautiful golden spires. Very elaborate inside. At this point I had no idea where I was! So I asked the lady behind the counter in the shop that sells icons and candles. She looked at my map – said many things to me in Russian and then threw the map back at me. I thanked her and quickly left! ()

There was a much younger woman in the courtyard of the cathedral. I asked her if she knew English and she said Neicht (No) but she was able to explain to me in Russian (Ukrainian?) and show me on the map where I was. I thanked her profusely and she responded “It was no problem”! Guess she did know some English!

I was much further into the heart of the city than I had thought so pushed on. Ended up at The Ushakov Square where there was supposed to be a monument to Admiral Ushakov – but it appeared the statue had been removed so I guess he fell out of favor!

Walked around a large park, then headed back in the direction of the ship along Yuzhnaya Harbor. There was a monument to Lenin! Passed the Count Suvorov Monument and the Monument to the Komsomol Heroes.

Headed over to the Artillery Harbour. Beautiful buildings along the waterfront. Wallked to the Krustalny (Cristal) Beach where a lot of young people were sunning on the concrete beach and swimming in the very, very cold Black Sea. They were having a blast.

I took pictures of the Monument to the 300th anniversary of the Russian Fleet and the obelisk in honor of the Hero – erected by the City of Sevastopol. Lots of new construction going up at this place. Headed back along the waterfront by several shopping areas. Looked for a post card for Lauren and Lillian but absolutely no one was selling post cards. Oh well!

Sat in a park by the waterfront for a while people watching and rested my tired feet. Headed back to the ship about 6 ready to get my shoes off and get my feet up. But then a real surprise. A concert amplified from the park where I had just been. A violinist who was excellent. I sat on the balcony and read for a while – then raided the mini-bar and had my evening cocktails and enjoyed the violin concert. It was surreal. Then as the sunset – it was more surreal. Beautiful. I just happened to be on the city side of the ship to be able to hear the concert. It was wonderful. I heard amplified messages and music earlier in the day – but this was special. I really enjoyed this.

At 8:45 I went down to the Discoverer’s Bar and had a drink. The harpist was there playing. While there, a couple came in – a man pushing his wife in a wheelchair – and she was obviously out of it. But during the harp playing, she held his hand and looked up at his face. She couldn’t talk but this was very moving for me. Very touching.

I got a table at 9 in the dining room for dinner. Also, there are a lot of Philippinos working on the ship. Also lots from Mauritious – need to go there too! Starting to plan the next ATW trip – the west coast of Africa, a safari, Mauritious, perhaps Male and who knows where else.

My “table mates” (different tables) were from Boynton Beach (west of 95) and Santiago. Enjoyed talking to them. Dinner was okay – nothing to write home about. I enjoyed my talk with the 2 couples – no one can “figure me out”. Why does this not really bother me? I’m okay being by myself at dinner. And had a great dinner – and good conversation with both of the couples. Chatty Kathy?

Went to the eConnections Lounge and caught up my blog in Word – will update it later when the connection is better. The satellite connection from the ship is really bad – and it takes forever to log on and log off so I do this in batches now.
About 11 – went to bed. Have to get up early tomorrow for my early tour.

Day 28 - Sunday June 5, 2011 - Odessa, The Ukraine

Top: Very prominent statue of Catherine the Great in the town square in Odessa, Ukraine

Middle: A man played a "soulful" song on a bandura - sounded like a harpsicord.

Bottom: The famous Potemkin Steps

We are as far north today as we’ll be on this trip. The sea was so calm all of the way from Romania to Ukraine. My waiter told me last night that this is typical, the Black Sea is rarely rough. I can see why this is such an important body of water as this is a major shipping area for Russia and Eastern Europe. Constanta, where we were yesterday, is the 4th largest port in all of Europe.

It got light at 5 am and woke me up. I got up at 6 and put my gym clothes on and went up on deck for a one mile walk around the jogging track. My knees are acting up bad! Did some tai chi too! That was relaxing. I had morning coffee on deck as we sailed into Odessa. Went to the room about 8 and got ready for my walking tour of Odessa.

Odessa is on the site of an ancient Greek colony that disappeared during the 3rd century. It became a part of the Russian Empire during the late 1700’s and evolved into one of the biggest and wealthiest cities in the country. Odessa was the 4th largest city of Imperial Russia. Germany and Romania occupied the city in 1941 but it was liberated by the Soviet Army in 1944. Odessa’s architecture is said to be more heavily influenced by a more Mediterranean style rather than Russian. There are 3 prominent palaces: Garagin, Tolstoy, and Pototsky. The Tolstoy Palace is a concert hall now. The Odessa Opera is said to be spectacular and that’s on my agenda today. Should be a full day of walking.

I met my tour at 9:00 and we were off to the city on a bus. First stop was the large statue of Catherine the Great who “commissioned” the city of Odessa. We then began the walking tour of Odessa by walking down Ekaterininskaya Street to the statue of the Duke de Richelieu at the top of the Potemkin Steps. The steps are larger at the bottom than at the top. From the top you see 10 landings separating 10 sections of steps – each with 20 steps – for a total of 200 steps. They are built to “reflect life”. From the top you see the landings representing different milestones in your life. From the bottom, all you see are the steps that seem to reach to the sky. The bottom is the beginning of life, and the top is the end of life.

There is a beautiful park along Primorsky Boulevard – lots of shade, benches, people watching is good here. That leads to the Pushkin Statue. Alexander Pushkin is revered in Odessa. This statue is in front of the City Council building and the British Tiger Gun – a large cannon that was captured by the Russian army during the Crimean War in the mid 1800’s.

We passed by the Archeology Museum and the Russian Navy Museum (that was under renovation). Lots of buildings are undergoing renovation in Odessa – and it is obvious that they are taking care of their precious buildings here. Then we arrived at the beautiful Opera and Ballet Theatre – a beautiful structure with intricate carvings.

We walked down Deribasovskaya Street past lots of sidewalk restaurants to the Odessa City Garden. We stopped at a local restaurant for a cup of tea and I enjoyed my conversation about “travels” with a couple from Australia and a couple from New Jersey. Then we were off to another large park, the Kulikovo Pole, that is the major square of Odessa. We saw the Vorontsov Statue here and our guide, Cimasa, told us they have military prades and public celebrations here. Next door was the Uspensky Cathedral that was built in 1869 and it has 5 domes. It was more beautiful inside (downstairs) that outside. Being Sunday, there were lots of people moving in and out to worship.

Then we walked down several residential streets. A lot of the people live inside courtyards that are within the buildings that you see from the street. We ended up at the Tolstoy Mansion that was the former palace of Count Mikhail Tolstoy. Next to this mansion was a bridge called the “Mother-in-Law Bridge”. Couples come here and put a lock on the railing of the bridge before they get married – then they thrown the key away. It is said if you do this you will have a long and successful marriage! Cimasa assured us that this legend isn’t true!!!!

We walked through a beautiful “shopping mall” that had a glass ceiling. The building was quite ornate. Not many shoppers.

A word about the Ukraine people: Generally very fair – men generally had very short hair (crew cuts) and wore gym-type shorts that were about the size of boxers. Smooth bodies and most had no facial hair. The women generally wore drap, non-descript clothes. We did see 3 wedding parties and they were all dressed up.
We returned to the ship a little after 1 pm. I went to the restaurant and had lamp brochette. Sat with a couple from Ireland first and we discussed the Queen’s visit to Ireland and then Obama’s visit to Ireland. Then an older British couple sat down – and they were cute. They are spending their children’s inheritance too!!!! I told them my Barbara Hutton story and the woman LOVED that. She told me she was going to use that herself!

After lunch I headed back out into Odessa and stayed until after 5. First I walking up and down the Potemkin Steps – 200 steps each way. My feet and knees are KILLING me right now!

I sat in the park along Primorsky Boulevard and just took in the beautiful sites. Lovely city. Walked in some of the residential courtyards. Went back to the Opera and sat and looked at that for a while. Then to the Odessa City Garden again. Walked around the area – and as I was leaving the Cathedral, there was a HUGE house fire. Fire engines that looked like they were out of the 1950’s came in response to the fire. Lots of smoke.

As I came back through Odessa City Garden a concert was starting. A young group of
people playing lots of music – and some of the people were even dancing. Sat and listened for a while. Then headed back to the ship past the Statue of Catherine the Great. Got propositioned by a hooker and a guy wanted me to break a “big bill” for him – probably counterfeit. I got away from both proposals!

I got back on the ship about 5:30 with my feet and knees hurting. I plan to take it easy this evening as tomorrow is another day full of walking in Sevastopol, Ukraine. Watched a movie on the TV and then went for a drink in the lounge followed by dinner in the dining room. Not many people here tonight as there is a BBQ on the deck and a lot of people went to the opera at the Opera House in Odessa tonight. Had a really good dinner of carpaccio, vichyssoise, and sword steak. Good. The British couple next to me ordered steaks – one well done and the other VERY well done. They both were like hockey pucks!

Went to the Mosaic Lounge and listened to the harpist for a while but she was putting me to sleep! Caught up on email, updated my blog and then headed to bed. It didn’t get dark until 9:30.

We leave Odessa at midnight tonight and we don’t dock until 1 pm in Sevastopol, so I’m planning to sleep in tomorrow.

Day 27- Saturday June 4, 2011 - Constanta, Romania

Picture: The beautiful and intriquely carved "Casino" in Constanta, Romania

We arrived in Constanta early and were docked by 7:30 am. I went up for my morning coffee at 7 and sat on the deck while we docked. Got ready and I was one of the first ones off of the ship. Today is independent exploring day. I wanted to go to Bucharest, Romania but it is a 3 hour bus ride each way and we are only in port for 9 hours – so I’d only have 3 hours there. Bucharest is on my list of places to go back to as they call it “The Paris of Eastern Europe”.

The cruise provided a shuttle to Ovid Square in the middle of Constanta. Ovid is considered to be Romania’s first poet. He had angered Caesar Augustus and was exiled in 8 AD to Constanta. There is a statue of him in the middle of Ovid Square and he is revered by the Romanians.

From Ovid Square I took off on foot on my own. The cruise had warned about pick-pockets but quite frankly there weren’t many people around – only the 4 young people who had bottles of liquor and were sitting in the middle of a busy street. They had probably been drinking all night.

Walked up to Parcul Primariel – a huge park in Constanta – not very well maintained. It has the ruins of an old fortification wall and other ancient relics laying around. Plus a few homeless people sleeping! Lots of scrawny dogs walking around too! There is a huge government building in the park. It seems that the government buildings are the only ones that are half way maintained. Everything else looks dreary and decaying. I think this is what I was somewhat expecting in eastern Europe, though.

From the park, I walked back to the Ethnographical Museum – not much to talk about. The Archeological Museum is on Ovid Square. Next to it is The Roman Mosaic Museum. The old mosaic was discovered in 1962. There are much better mosaics in Rome or other places.

I walked to the Great Mahmudiye Mosque that was built in 1910 by Romanian King Carol I. Very small in comparison to the great mosques of Turkey! Then I walked to the waterfront and there was a large strolling walkway all around the harbor. Pretty. There I saw the Genoese Lighthouse constructed in 1860 and the Casino – an intriquely carved building built in 1900.

I saved the best for last – the St. Peter and Paul Orthodox Cathedral – built in the late 1800’s. Stunning inside. They had some sort of service going on and it was interesting to watch. I believe this is Greek Orthodox and they had a table of food laid out and the priest (?) was chanting and they were rocking back and forth. Enjoyed watching this.

I headed back to Ovid Square feeling that I had seen the important things in Constanta. A couple from Los Angeles that I met got on the bus with me. She was very disappointed in the 2 stops we have had so far, but I told her the cities somewhat met my expectations. Unfortunately, what I have generally seen so far of Bulgaria and Romania is not very well maintained and somewhat dirty. But the people have generally been friendly and welcoming.

Day 26 - Friday June 3, 2011 - Nessebar, Bulgaria

I woke up about 6 am with the sun and turned over and tried to sleep until about 7. Got up and got ready and went for coffee in the café. I wasn’t really hungry but they had the delicious muslix that I really like – creamy with large chunks of fruit in it – so I had some. It was yummy.

Enjoyed coffee on the back deck as we sailed into Nessebar. The couples from San Diego came through and I gave them my table since I was done. We anchored off shore and today is a “tender day”. While I was finishing my coffee it poured down rain.
Went to the cabaret theater and met my tour group at 9:00. The tender ride was quick and then the nightmare. They had “registered” all of our passports with the Bulgarian authorities, but the immigration officer decided that each passport had to be checked. So we stood in line – for a long time. The Europeans were able to get through since Bulgaria is now in the EU, but we waited and waited and waited. The cruise tour organizers were confused as to what was happening but we had no choice but to wait. They were really slow. Is this a hangover from the Russian influence on Bulgaria perhaps?

Nessebar – and Bulgaria - is thought to have been inhabited long before recorded time – as far back as 100,000 BC. There are several old structures in Nessebar that date back to the 400’s – 1500’s. We saw the Old Bishop’s Residence, The Christ Pantocrator Church, St Stefan’s Church, St. John Aliturgetos Church, St John the Baptist Church, the ruins of the fortified walls, the archaeological museum, and the Byzantine Baths. There were lots of religious icons, and several murals in the St John the Baptist Church that were original from the 1400’s. Beautiful. Most of the churches were ruins but we got to go into one of them. Interesting.

After the Walking Tour, I explored Old Nessebar on my own. The new city is quite a beach resort – one of the largest on the Black Sea. There is one resort after the other along the shore. The sun finally came out and it warmed up, so I enjoyed my independent walking around the city.

Headed back to the ship about 2 and had lunch by the pool. I was reading a booklet I picked up at the Blue Mosque – “What Is Islam”. The waiter from Uzbekistan asked me about it and he was very happy that I was learning about Islam. We talked for a while about this.

Went to the pool and read for a while – napped – and then went to The Looking Glass for sail away at 5 pm. Bulgaria definitely shows its Russian influence. The guide, Nasta, made it clear that Bulgaria may have had a communist government but it was always free of the USSR (????). The buildings are generally not well maintained, the streets and sidewalks need work, and the cars look cheap.

Had a light dinner (relatively speaking!) in the restaurant. They had a guy playing a guitar and singing. It was a bit amusing as he spoke with a thick Russian-type accent yet he was singing Elvis Presley, Tom Jones, Sting, etc. Still it was somewhat enjoyable dinner music.

After dinner I went to the Mosaic Café Lounge and listened to a cabaret entertainer– Jim Badger – he was excellent – good pianist, good singer, funny and entertaining. Had an amaretto on the rocks while I enjoyed his show tunes and oldies but goodies – lots of Jerry Herman.

Went to bed about 11. This ship doesn’t rock much at all. Don’t believe we are going all that fast, but the ship seems to be very stable with not much side to side or front to back rocking. That has been good.

Day 25 - Thursday June 2, 2011 - Istanbul, Turkey Headed to the Black Sea

Top: The new palace as seen from the Bosporus Straight in Istanbul.

Bottom: Topkopi Palace as seen from the Bosporus Straight in Istanbul

Slept until about 7:30. Had coffee, packed, updated my blog, and then checked out of the hotel. Took at taxi to the port which isn't too far from the hotel. The taxis must have an underground racket as it was $30 to go not very far. Hmmm!

I met 2 couples from San Diego in the line waiting to check in. We talked a while and I ended up giving them my used map of Istanbul, pointed out the Spice Market, and told them how to take the Istanbul tram there – easiest way.

Security was a bit confusing, but I boarded the Azamara Quest before noon. The rooms weren't ready so I went to the coffee bar and talked to the English guy who ran it. Coffee, soft drinks and wine are all complimentary on this cruise. And the gratuties are all included too - cool.

Room was ready about 1 so I unpacked completely. It is good to be out of a suitcase for a while. Went to do the laundry but a little Japanese lady had half of the machines tied up and she was very protective of them. I bet she is doing laundry for all of her friends!!!! I'm just going to have Mohammed (from Malaysia), my cabin steward, to take care of the laundry. I'm not feeling like a laundry-maid today!

Took a short nap, went to the safety drill and then went to have a drink in the Looking Glass - a huge bar at the front of the ship. I'll be spending a lot of time here over the next 9 days.

Went to shower and change at 6, cocktails at 7 and then dinner tonight in Prime C Steakhouse - it is one of their specialty restaurants.

After the required safety drill, I went to the Looking Glass Lounge and picked out my spot for sail away. I’ll spend time here as the vantage point is great. Had a drink, talked to the waitress from Thailand for a while, took a few last pictures of Istanbul, then headed to my cabin to shower and change for sail away and dinner.

Went back to the Looking Glass about 6:30 and took my spot at the front windows. We sailed shortly after 7 pm and headed up The Bosporus Straight. A very busy waterway – commercial ships everywhere. The channel is curvy so we weaved back and forth. We passed under the 2 large bridges that connect Europe with Asia. The captain told us these are the only bridges that connect the 2 continents – somehow I find that hard to believe but I’m not sure I understand the entire “continental divide” between these 2 continents.

I enjoyed drinks and the sights along the Bosporus. A couple started singing and playing in the lounge – the “Sandy Lyn Duo”. I turned and would have sworn that the woman (Lyn) was Francine Marshall – the way she looked – and acted! Funny how I occasionally see “look alikes” in various places on the planet. That happens to me frequently. As the sun set and daylight turned to dusk, I could see us coming out of the narrow part of the Bosporus into what is probably The Black Sea. Because of all of the mist and the darkness ahead, it actually looked like we were going to sail off of the surface of earth!

I had an 8:30 reservation at the Prime C Restaurant – the specialty steak house. I got a table right at the back window looking at the Bosporus. It was “complimentary” tonight so there is no cover charge! They started with an amuse bouche – a mixed fruit gazpacho – unusual and delicious. Had prawns and then onion soup to start. The onion soup was creative in that they provided a slice of onion pizza on the side. A nice touch. The filet was good. Banana cheesecake for dessert – yummy but didn’t need it.

A good first day on the Azamara Quest. The ship is small but well appointed. Service is exceptional and friendly. Ready for a good nights sleep.