Top: The Pokrovsky Cathedral in Sevastopol, Ukraine
Bottom: Memorial steps in Sevastopol. Many, many things related to war and the fallen in this militarily important city.
We arrive in Sevastopol, Ukraine in early afternoon so I decided to sleep in for a change. I pulled the drapes almost shut but I woke up at 5 am to see the most beautiful sun rising over the Black Sea – bright gold and red and HUGE. Watched that very shortly and then went back to sleep – until 8 am. Couldn’t believe I slept that long, but my feet and knees were thanking me. Went for morning coffee and watched the sea. The Black Sea has turned a beautiful turquoise blue whereas before it was just a dark color. We have moved away from where the Danube and 3 other rivers empty into the Black Sea so I imagine this has an impact on the color of the sea. The sea is still very, very calm. Much calmer than what we see in the Caribbean.
Spent the morning either on my balcony reading or up on the pool deck. Nice and quiet and relaxing. I went to a lecture at 10 about Yalta – he reiterated that Odessa was about the city and architecture, Sevastopol is about the Crimean Peninsula, the military influence, and the Russian Black Sea Army, and Yalta is about palances and castles.
I read until about 1:30 to allow the other passengers to eat lunch and get off of the ship. Then I went to lunch in the restaurant and ate on the back deck overlooking the Sevastopol harbor. Beautiful view.
I left the ship a little after 2 and headed into the city. We are docked at the Grafskaya Wharf. While, Odessa is all about architecture and life-style, and Yalta is about palaces, Sevastopol is very “military oriented”. This is where the Russian Navy was based, and actually still is based here based on an agreement with Ukraine until 2014. Wonder what will happen then?
I walked by the Admiral Nakhimov Monument and by the Monument to the Scuttled Ships. Warning you – almost everything is about war and war heroes or the fallen. Beautiful waterfront with a viewing stand for military reviews in the harbor. Went by an outdoor drama amphitheatre in a small park. Then headed up the hill – first to the Monument to the Kazarsky, then the Russian Black Sea Fleet Museum.
After some wrong turns, I arrived at Vladimirsky Cathedral – the place where Russian admirals were buried. Beautiful inside but the structure is in dire need of repairs. Unfortunately, this is typical of a lot of these cities – they seem to be crumbling before our very eyes. We saw some restoration in Odessa but not much in any of these other cities. I saw some balconies that looked to me that they would fall if someone walked on them. I didn’t want to walk under them!
Left the Cathedral and went by the Main Post Office and ended up (by chance) at the Pokrovsky Cathedral. This is a Russian Orthodox Church with beautiful golden spires. Very elaborate inside. At this point I had no idea where I was! So I asked the lady behind the counter in the shop that sells icons and candles. She looked at my map – said many things to me in Russian and then threw the map back at me. I thanked her and quickly left! ()
There was a much younger woman in the courtyard of the cathedral. I asked her if she knew English and she said Neicht (No) but she was able to explain to me in Russian (Ukrainian?) and show me on the map where I was. I thanked her profusely and she responded “It was no problem”! Guess she did know some English!
I was much further into the heart of the city than I had thought so pushed on. Ended up at The Ushakov Square where there was supposed to be a monument to Admiral Ushakov – but it appeared the statue had been removed so I guess he fell out of favor!
Walked around a large park, then headed back in the direction of the ship along Yuzhnaya Harbor. There was a monument to Lenin! Passed the Count Suvorov Monument and the Monument to the Komsomol Heroes.
Headed over to the Artillery Harbour. Beautiful buildings along the waterfront. Wallked to the Krustalny (Cristal) Beach where a lot of young people were sunning on the concrete beach and swimming in the very, very cold Black Sea. They were having a blast.
I took pictures of the Monument to the 300th anniversary of the Russian Fleet and the obelisk in honor of the Hero – erected by the City of Sevastopol. Lots of new construction going up at this place. Headed back along the waterfront by several shopping areas. Looked for a post card for Lauren and Lillian but absolutely no one was selling post cards. Oh well!
Sat in a park by the waterfront for a while people watching and rested my tired feet. Headed back to the ship about 6 ready to get my shoes off and get my feet up. But then a real surprise. A concert amplified from the park where I had just been. A violinist who was excellent. I sat on the balcony and read for a while – then raided the mini-bar and had my evening cocktails and enjoyed the violin concert. It was surreal. Then as the sunset – it was more surreal. Beautiful. I just happened to be on the city side of the ship to be able to hear the concert. It was wonderful. I heard amplified messages and music earlier in the day – but this was special. I really enjoyed this.
At 8:45 I went down to the Discoverer’s Bar and had a drink. The harpist was there playing. While there, a couple came in – a man pushing his wife in a wheelchair – and she was obviously out of it. But during the harp playing, she held his hand and looked up at his face. She couldn’t talk but this was very moving for me. Very touching.
I got a table at 9 in the dining room for dinner. Also, there are a lot of Philippinos working on the ship. Also lots from Mauritious – need to go there too! Starting to plan the next ATW trip – the west coast of Africa, a safari, Mauritious, perhaps Male and who knows where else.
My “table mates” (different tables) were from Boynton Beach (west of 95) and Santiago. Enjoyed talking to them. Dinner was okay – nothing to write home about. I enjoyed my talk with the 2 couples – no one can “figure me out”. Why does this not really bother me? I’m okay being by myself at dinner. And had a great dinner – and good conversation with both of the couples. Chatty Kathy?
Went to the eConnections Lounge and caught up my blog in Word – will update it later when the connection is better. The satellite connection from the ship is really bad – and it takes forever to log on and log off so I do this in batches now.
About 11 – went to bed. Have to get up early tomorrow for my early tour.
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