Top: The Cathedral Notre Dame in Reims, France. This is called the Coronation Cathedral as all of the kings of France (except 2) were coronated here. Magnificent.
Middle: Some of the very beautiful stained glass in the Reims Cathedral.
Bottom: A "cave" at Tattinger Champagne Winery. Each "cave" holds 70,000 bottles of champagne. I got to sample some - yum - good!
A very, very busy and long day!
I woke up at 5:45 am! It seems that it gets dark at 11 pm and light before 6 am. A short night. I had to get up early today to get my train to Reims, France - only a 45 minute train ride almost directly east of Paris on the TGV - the French fast train.
I went to the Executive Lounge at 6:30 when it opened for breakfast. They do a good job there and what a deal - it's free for me!
Left the hotel about 7:30 to make sure I was able to get my tickets at the Gare de L'est. Took the Metro to Gare du Nord and walked the 2 blocks to the Gard de L'est. Checked my trains on the ticket machines for the schedule and wrote it down. But the machines won't issue my tickets as US credit cards don't have a "chip" that is required in France. So I have to go to the ticket office. Of course I found out that they don't open until 8 am (wouldn't you know!).
Had a pain au raisins from the station patisserie while I was waiting for the ticket office to open. Got in line and gave the attendant my paper with my trains written down. I actually did most of the transaction in French - proud of me! Then she asked for my ID for my credit card - which of course I didn't have. No passport and no drivers license - "Merde"! So I changed from 1st class to 2nd class and used my euros to pay for the ticket to Reims.
They only post the trains 20 minutes before departure which is aggravating for someone like me who wants to be there early and make sure I'm in the right place. Nevertheless, it worked out fine. At 8:40 they posted the gate for the train and I went right on for the 8:57 departure. Found my reserved seat on the car to which I was assigned and at the stroke (literally) of 8:57 the train started its journey. A short 45 minute train ride.
Not too much to see and it was very cloudy on the ride to Reims so I snoozed. It had been a short night. Reims is in the middle of the Champagne Region of France. I had never visited here before so this will be a great new experience for me.
The TGV arrived right on time in Reims. It was a beautiful walk into the middle of town. Clean, fresh, beautiful. In the distance I can see the spires of the cathedral Notre Dame. So I head there. I put my iPod on and started listening to English Choral music as I walked through the city. A beautiful piece was playing as I approached the cathedral - and my thoughts were "Oh my god!". It is magnificent. Some of the outsidde has been restored but most is dirty with years of grim and dirt. A constant project keeping a structure such as this pristine.
Went inside and sat for a while just taking it all in. There is new stained glass that has been installed in some of the windows. The John D. Rockafella Foundation paid for some but Al tells me that Germany sponsored some of the windows - as guess as reparations many years later for the damage they caused during WWII. Beautiful colors and each window tells a story.
I sat for a while and someone started playing an organ - not the big organ unfortunately - but it was beautiful. There were many signs up and on the back of each I discovered there was an English translation so I learned a lot about the windows and the cathedral. It was the site of the baptism of Clovis in the mid
1000's. Every King of France since then was coronated at this cathedral (except for 2 kings and I don't remember which they were). So it is known as The Coronation Cathedral - the Westminster Abbey of France!
A truly stunning structure - very enjoyable. Took a walk around and looked at some of the other interesting structure in Reims. Then headed to the champagne "maisons". It was a bit of a hike but I made it to Veuve Cliquot Ponsardin. Unfortunately, when I got there I found out that they only do tours "by prior appointment". So I went to Tattinger and got on an English tour that had just started. A great visit. We were like 4-5 stories under ground - in the "caves". Each "cave" holds 70,000 bottles of champagne and many were full. And this isn't their only place of business. Beautiful tour of "the underground". They make Methusula bottles of champagne, but only make Nebukanesar bottles on special orders (that's the one Tim had in China several years ago!).
A fun tour - and we got a complimentary glass of Tattinger champange at the end. I met a couple from Wisconsin who were nice and engaging. They are supporting the recall of their governor - and I asked them for help in recalling the Florida governor who is cutting services and funds for education. What's going on in our country? But enough of that.
Headed outside and it was about 1 pm and threatening rain. I walked about 15 minutes back into Reims Centre - and low and behold it started raining. So I got back to the cathedral and found Le Cardinal Restaurant and a table for one outside under an umbrella overlooking the cathedral. Beautiful. Had a great 2 hour late lunch. Very filling.
The man at the next table to me was a riot. He was Dutch and talking out loud to a table of 5 Dutch people at the next table. He asked me to help him with his English and he ended up calling me "ma professeur d'anglais"! He switched works in conversation between Flemish, French, and English and I had a hard time keeping up at times - "Quoi?" (What?). Then he would explain in English or use other words. Actually we had a few interchanges in French so my French hasn't been too bad this trip. I feel more confident with it - plus - who cares if you make a mistake?
Lunch was delicious and filling. It was 3:30 when I finished. I bid my next-table-mate adieu (Au revoir) and headed back through town to the train station. Went by the Hotel de Ville - beautiful. Easy walk back to the station. The train was right on time and again only a 45 minute direct route to Gare de L'est in Paris. Took the "6" train and then the "5" train to get back directly in front of the hotel.
Went to the Executive Lounge and had white wine and relaxed for a while. Ended up having a vegetable plate and bread and cheese with my wine about 7 pm. That was my dinner tonight - not hungry plus I'm pooped.
Got back to the room at 8 and relaxed for the rest of the evening. Am pulling the black out curtains tonight and plan to sleep in tomorrow. Nothing planned except lunch with Al Stewart. My last day in Paris. Gosh, I love this city. May stop by a real estate office and inquire about a rental tomorrow????
Bon Soir!
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