Saturday, June 11, 2011

Day 36 - Monday June 13, 2011 - Geneva, Switzerland





Top: The Jet d'Eau in Lake Leman. It shoots water 140 meters in the air.

Middle: The Monument Brunswick - a mausoleum to Duke Charles of Brunswick.

Bottom: Saint Peter's Cathedral in Old Town Geneva

A full day of touring in Geneva. I awoke to very cloudy skies and very chilly temperatures. I figured that the views wouldn't be so good up high in the Alps at the Matterhorn with the low clouds - and I didn't have warm clothes as I figured it would be COLD up there - and I don't like being cold. So I decided to stay in Geneva and tour around for my free day here.

Had breakfast in the hotel restaurant, then got ready and headed out before very many people were stirring. Today is a religious holiday in Switzerland so everything is closed. I headed to Lake Leman and walked across one of the pedestrian bridges to the Old Town. Beautiful architecture and sites everywhere. Walked around Saint Peter's Cathedral that was built in the early 1500's The Maccabee Chapel was built in the 1400's. All restored in the 1990's and it is beautiful. Sits up high so the steeple is visible from Lake Leman towering over the city.

Did some window shopping in the city and walked a ways up the north side of the lake. Went to several memorials enroute to the Central Train Station to find out where I need to be tomorrow to get back to the airport and what the schedule is. It looks like there are several trains mid day that leave every 15 minutes or so. Very convenient and my "hotel pass" let's me ride it for free - what a deal!

Headed back by the hotel to get my jacket as it was still chilly. Headed to the lake and the jet d'eau was on spewing water 140 meters into the air. Beautiful but the winds were blowing the spray like crazy. It was on for 20 minutes and then they turned in off and I never saw it come back on all day.

Went to the Monument Brunswick which is a mausoleum erected in memory of Duke Charles of Brunswick who left his fortune to the city of Geneva. Walked along the waterfront and enjoyed the sun that finally came out from behind the clouds and it felt good. Enjoyed the people watching. Walked up near to where the UN headquarters is located and caught a ferry using my "hotel pass" and went to the other side of the lake. Then took the ferry back to the Mont Blanc Bridge. From there I changed boats and took another boat to the Old City Centre.

Walked from the pier back to St. Peter's Cathedral and went in this time as it was open. Visited the Chapel of the Maccabees too.

Then walked around looking for an "early dinner" location. Started to stop at the restaurant across from the Hotel d'Ville. But I went down a side street and found Restaurant des Amures. I ate here many many years ago with my colleagues from DuPont. Bill and Hillary Clinton ate here in 1994 and there is a plaque on the wall outside commemorating that will a replica of the letter President Clinton sent to the owner.

My lunch/dinner was fantastic. I first ordered a 1/2 bottle of St Emilion Grand Cru Classe - it was wonderful - and still water. Then I ordered a plate of racclette - melted cheese served with small boiled potatoes, gherkin pickles, and small onions. Yum. Then I had lamp with pomme frites and vegetables and french bread. Finished it off with a creme brulee that was excellent. YUM! Most likely no dinner needed tonight.

I had thought I had too many swiss francs but not after that lunch. It was the equivalent of $150!!!! But worth it.

By this time it was after 4 pm, so I walked around the Old Town a little more and headed back to the hotel about 5 via a tram from the Old Town. The tram system is easy to figure out and I was there in only 2 stops.

My feet were tired so they needed a rest after all of that walking so I headed back to the hotel for a while. Went out later for a last stroll along the lake. It stays light here until almost 10 pm which is cool.

On June 21 they will be celebrating the summer equinox (is it equinox or solstice?). Anyway, in France and Switzerland, they celebrate the longest day of the year with La Fete de La Musique. Everywhere people come out into the streets and play instruments and music of all types. Tim and I experienced this in Lyon several years ago. It was fun. Unfortunately I'll miss it in France this year. But in Geneva they have a clever approach. They have upright pianos located in many places throughout the city. Anyone walking down the street can stop and play and they do. I stopped several times to listen to some very talented musicians. Wonderful thing they do. I'd like to experience this again some other time.

A great visit to Geneva, Switzerland.

Day 35 - Sunday June 12, 2011 - Geneva, Switzerland





Top: Genevieve and Richard Schneider with our big plate of "filet de perches" on Lake Leman outside of Geneva, Switzerland.

Middle: Me on the pier at Le Port Restaurant after eating a lot of filet de perches!

Bottom: One of the many old castles we saw along the French and Swiss coast of Lake Leman going to and from Evian, France.

Up at 7 and down to the cafe in the hotel for "petit dejeuner". I love it that I'm back in "french-speaking" territory. "Bonjour", "Merci", "S'il vous plais", etc. Love this language but wish I could speak more of it. I now have a week to practice!

Had my petit dejeuner and headed out for a short walk in the Old City. Didn't have much time as Genevieve and Richard Schneider picked me up at 11 for a filet de perches (perch from the Lake) lunch at a local restaurant. Genevieve and Richard live in Unit 514 in the Venetian - next door to our first apartment there.

They arrived a little before 11 and it was good seeing them both. And we were off - to the French side of Lake Leman (sometimes mistakenly called Lake Geneva). A beautiful ride on the side of the lake where I had never been.

We went to their favorite restaurant on the lake. They sometimes take their boat from Geneva there and dock for lunch but today was a bit too windy to do that. They had reservations and we got our table. A kir to start, then red wine with filet de perches - a HUGE plate of them - french fries - green beans - and ratatouille. Followed by a pastry with strawberries and creme anglais. All delicious. And we ate it all, of course.

After lunch we headed further into France to Evian, headquarters and "the source" of Evian water. Beautiful, beautiful quaint town. We went to a museum (a former "therme spa") that had an art exhibit from the royal collection of the Prince of Leichtenstein. Brueghel, Rembrandt, Rubens, Biedermeiers, etc. Beautiful collection - especially the pictures done on copper with small thin pieces of marble - unbelieveable. There was one painting of Princess Marie Franziska von Liechtenstein at the age of two that was precious. She had a head full of curls and was holding her doll baby - precious.

We stopped in a liquor store where the lady running it was very knowledgeable. She gave me samples of an aperitif I didn't know - believe it was Argenac - it is like a cognac. I had the 12 year old and then she gave me a 30 year old sample. Delicious. The older the better.

From Evian we headed back toward Switzerland stopping in several towns along the southern coast of Lake Leman. The lake is about 60 miles long and 10 miles wide at the widest point - which is between Evian, France and Lausanne, Switzerland.

We stopped at Thonon and walked around an old castle that is now a beautiful hotel. Lots of Sunday drivers and the traffic was heavy in places. We went by Yvoire that is a "walking only" ancient city on the lake - we didn't stop as there was no place to park.

We arrived back in Geneva about 7 pm - a full day of touring. I really appreciate Genevieve and Richard's hospitality and commentary in English of the countryside. They invited me for a racclette cheese dinner but I'm tentatively planning to get up early and go to Zermatt - so unfortunately I had to decline.

Back to the hotel for a short rest. Not really hungry after such a large lunch of delicious filet de perches, so I got something light and then back to the hotel for the night. Tomorrow a full day of touring planned - who knows where the day may take me!!!!

Love this place - and French!

Friday, June 10, 2011

Day 34 - Saturday June 11, 2011 - Athens, Greece




Above: The Parthenon on the Acropolis in Athens, Greece

Below: A temple with beautifully preserved statues that serve as columns.

Woke up at 5:30 and we were already docked in the Port of Athens at Piraeus. Never heard us coming in. Showered, dressed and went for coffee in the restaurant and a last stroll around the deck of the ship.

Waited in my room until my unloading number was called a little before 7:45. Retrieved my bag and followed my guide to a bus that will take us on a short tour through Athens and then to the Acropolis. We got to see a lot of the historical sites. Traffic wasn't too bad given that it was Saturday morning.

We arrived at the Acropolis and began the hike up the hill on what seems like very slippery marble steps and walkways. The entrance has been changed since I was here last. And access to the buildings is very limited. A lot of restoration work is underway and you can readily see where they have restored sections with beautiful new white marble against the old stained surfaces. I was surprised how much more of this structure they have been able to put back together.

We had a little bit of free time so I did a sprint around the top taking pictures, and then returned to the bus. We headed to the relatively new airport on a new freeway that is so much better than the first time I was in Athens.

Checked in with Swiss Air for my flight to Geneva and went to the lounge to catch up on email and internet things. Today is my 13th flight and I'll travel 1,070 miles from Athens to Geneva non-stop on Swiss Air. I hadn't flown on Swiss Air in years and they did impress me. The service was impeccable - the flight attendant even gave me a shoulder and neck massage when she saw me rubbing my sore neck. It was heavenly. Lunch was good.

I got to see The Matterhorn outside of Zermatt as we got close to Geneva. Then I saw Mount Blanc as we approached Geneva. The Swiss Alps are truly beautiful.

No immigration - got my luggage - and noticed a machine that gives travelers a "free ticket" to take the train from the airport to the city. So I did that. Went to the station that is adjacent to the airport and got on the next train. All of the trains at this station stop at Geneve City. It was a 7 minute train ride - and my hotel is not far from the station so I walked there. Small hotel that offers free internet, breakfast, and a transportation card that allows me to ride the buses, train, and boats that operate within the city. I may do that just to see more of the city that I haven't seen.

Got settled and went out for an evening walk. It's June 11 and many people have on heavy coats still. I guess we are pretty far north and also at a high elevation. Went for a long walk. Beautiful city - I'd forgotten how much I like this place (even though it is a very expensive city). I'm planning to go through the old city again tomorrow.

Got a lite bite to eat and then went back to the hotel a little before 10. The sun was just setting then! Caught up on CNN and then went to bed - am really tired after getting up so early and travelling much of the day.

Day 33 - Friday June 10, 2011 - Mykonos, Greece




Top: Beautiful Mykonos, Greece as seen from the harbor

Bottom: I was able to have a short visit and coffee with our friend Yiannis at Fato a Mano Restaurant.

Up at 6:15 just as the sun was rising. Beautiful view over the now dark blue waters of the Aegean. Up to get my morning coffee and sat on deck watching the day begin. Did laps for 30 minutes around the track. Need to do something to lose some weight after this trip!

We anchored in the Mykonos Harbor about 9. We left the ship about 10 and I went to the bus for the beach excursion. A 25 minute ride to Elia Beach. Only about half full today – it is early in their summer season. They were still putting up the straw huts on the beach. Enjoyed beautiful Elia Beach until 2 and then the bus took us back to the city.

I asked our guide to let me off at “the upper traffic circle” like Tim and I did last summer. Walked downhill to the Elysium Hotel where Tim and I stayed last summer. Lots of people around the pool. I had Emile make me a drink at the bar and then Alex served me a delicious lunch on the balcony overlooking Mykonos City. We remembered them from last year. An enchanting view and a delicious lunch – expensive but delicious.

Walked down the hill to Mykonos City and found Fato a Mano Restaurant. I walked in and our friend Yiannis didn’t recognize me – he greeted me with “BonJour”! I gave him a big hug and we were glad to see each other. We sat and talked for a while. He seems to be doing great and I’m hopeful his “big business deal” will come to fruition for him soon. Such a positive person. Enjoyed my visit with Yiannis a lot.
Took the tender back to the ship about 6 pm and showered and dressed for dinner.

Started packing as my bag needs to be out by 11 tonight. Had drinks at one of the bars and watched the sun set over the Agean Sea. Beautiful. Watched as they loaded up the tenders back on ship and dismantled the loading platform. Then went to dinner in the dining room. Had Jeffrey from the Philippines again. Got a table by the window and watched as we sailed out of Mykonos.

Finished dinner about 10. Finished packing and put my bag in the hallway for pickup. And then to bed as I need to get up very early tomorrow. We are due into Athens (Piraeus) at 5 am.

Tuesday, June 7, 2011

Day 32 - Thursday June 9, 2011 - On The Black Sea throgh the Bosporus to the Marmara Sea and the Dardanelles Strait





Top: The huge Topkopi Palace as seen as we sailed out of the Bosporus Strait.

Middle: Ancient fortifications on the Bosporus Strait just outside of Istanbul

Bottom: The Blue Mosque as seen from the southwestern end of The Bosporus Strait

As planned, I woke up at 6 and went up on deck with my coffee. Not many people stirring – yet. Took in the last of the Black Sea – the color has changed noticeably – much more dark green rather than turquoise that I saw earlier. Did 15 laps on the track as I watched us slowly approach the narrow channel known as The Bosporus Strait that connects the Black Sea to the Aegean Sea. We entered the Bosporus about 7:00 a.m. and they had told us there would be a commentary as we passed through, but none was provided. By 8:45 we were by Topkopi Palace, Aya Sofia, and The Blue Mosque. Beautiful views of the city of Istanbul. And then we pushed on into the Sea of Marmara that will lead us to the Dardanelles and then into the Aegean Sea later this evening. Waters are still very, very calm but greenish rather than blue as I expected. The seas turned lighter shades of green as we moved west-south-west.

Had a late breakfast, caught up on email, and then found a place out of the sun to read for a while. Went to hear the historian talk about Athens at 11. Found a quiet place to start reading my new James Patterson book that I had picked up in Bangkok and did that until mid afternoon. Had a late lite lunch in the restaurant at 2:30 to tide me over until my dinner at 9. I was bummed out though – the wine connoisseur dinner that I was invited to was cancelled. I called them back to get a reservation at Aqualina only to be told the restaurant was full. “So if the restaurant is filled, why is the connoisseur dinner cancelled?” I asked. They “found” me a table at 9 pm for dinner.

Enjoyed time by the pool and on my private balcony – reading and napping. Went to the Sun Deck at 5:30 as we entered the Dardanelle Strait. Another narrow passage similar to the Bosporus – full of large cargo ships and tankers going both ways. A pilot boat came alongside again so the pilot could escort us through the narrow and curvy passage to the Aegean Sea.

At the western end of the Dardanelles are memorials to Turkish, English, Australian, and New Zealand troops who died here (believe before WW I. Also here is the site that is believed to be the former City of Troy and a lot of excavation has been done. The legendary Trojan Horse event happened here and one of the cities has a replica of “the horse” on display but we couldn’t make it out from the ship.

Went to the Looking Glass and watched as the sun set over the Aegean. Had my late dinner reservations at Aqualina and I was not disappointed. Daniel from Romania was my waiter and he made all of the recommendations that I accepted: Amuse bouche was a black truffle potato salad that was spectacular. Then a cold seafood platter – a bouillabaisse - lobster thermador – and lastly a grand marnier soufflĂ©. Spectacular dinner – and very filling. Diet here I come (when I get home)!

Daniel was a very, very proud Romanian. He has one more day on the ship and then he heads home to his wife and 2 children. He explained that The Quest is registered in Yalta and it is the flag of Yalta that flies over the ship. He also talked about the former dictator of Romania (Concesque???) and the abuses that the citizens endured. Everyone was glad when he and his wife were shot after a very short trial.
Went to the Mosaic Lounge and listened to Jim Badger sing.

Left at 11 and headed to bed so I can get up and watch the run rise over the Aegean as we sail into Mykonos.

Day 31 - Wednesday June 8, 2011 - From Yalta Across The Black Sea to Greece




Pictures: The Azamara Quest – my home away from home in the Black Sea for 10 days

I woke up at 6:30 am and we were still docked in Yalta. We are scheduled to leave at 7 am. I turned over and when I woke back up at 7:30 we were under way – not too far off of the coast of Yalta. We will be sailing back across the Black Sea all day today and tomorrow. We arrive in Mykonos on Friday morning. So today will be a day of relaxation - for reading, napping, Sudoku puzzles, eating, and drinking.

And I did just that. Had a late lunch, finished my second Sue Grafton book and finished my new book: “Buddha: His Life and Teachings and Impact on Humanity”. I learned a lot from my Buddha book but am going to have to read it again. My favorite chapter was “Suchness”, an interesting concept . . . “Anything incomplete is carried by the mind forever and forever. Anything complete is dropped. Mind has a tendency to carry the incomplete things in the hope that some day there may be an opportunity to complete them. You are still waiting for the wife to come back, or for the husband, or for the days that have gone – you are still waiting. You have not transcended the past. And because of such a loaded past, you cannot live in the present. Your present is a mess because of the past, and your future I going to be the same – because the past will become more and more heavy. Every day it is becoming heavier and heavier. When you really accept, in that attitude of suchness there is no grudge, you are not helpless. Simply you understand that this is the nature of things.” Makes you think!

Went to 3 lectures – one on the Borsporus by the guest lecturer on board, one on Mykonos Town, and one on Piraeus (port of Athens). So to finish off a “day of culture”, I went to another piano concert by the very talented Japanese woman, Tomono Kawamura – she was EXCELLENT. Had a late dinner in the restaurant (I’m still eating too much!), read a little in the cabin and went to bed about 11. Expect to get up early tomorrow so I can watch us enter the Bosporus Strait.

Day 30 - Tuesday June 7, 2011 - Yalta, Ukraine




Top: The front of the Vorotsov Palace in Alupka, Ukraine

Middle: The Swallow’s Nest Castle overlooking the Black Sea

Bottom: Livonia Palace – the last home of Tzar Nicholas II and Alexandra

I woke up at 5 and went ahead and got up. Put my gym clothes on and went to the “track” on the Sun Deck. I did 15 revolutions. It says that 13 are a nautical mile which is more than a regular mile. Had my mueslix and coffee when the restaurant opened at 6. Enjoyed watching us come into the Yalta Harbor. Beautiful setting with the Crimean Mountains protecting it to the north. They say the climate is sub-tropical and there are even palm trees here – never would have thought that.

Met my Yalta Palaces Tour at 8 and we were off ahead of schedule. Alexey was our guide and very informative. He is actually a writer for the local newspaper and does tours as a side line. Very funny at times. But it seems to me that in Russian they seldom use “a”, “an”, or “the”. Lots of sentences like . . . “Tzar live in palace”, “Palace in forest”!

We headed up into the mountains to Vorontsov Palace in the town of Alupka. Beautiful mansion and very well maintained. This is where Winston Churchill stayed in 1945 during the summit with Roosevelt and Stalin. We visited the rooms where he stayed and ate. Beautiful gardens – and huge.

We then headed to Swallow’s Nest Castle that is on the edge of a cliff. Just a photo opportunity. There are plans to develop this site as it is stunning.

Then to Livadia Palace – the last home built for the the last Tzar – Nicholas II and Alexandra. This is where Roosevelt stayed and where the meetings were held in 1945. Many family pictures of the royal family. Beautiful gardens too.

Alexey pointed out many other sites during our tour. We got back to the ship about 1:30 – a full morning of touring and my feet and knees were killing me! I went for a quick lunch and then to the room to get my feet up and take a short nap.

Back out to the City of Yalta about 4. Walked along Roosevelt Street and Primorsky Boulevard to the Central Square. A beautiful walking city with lots of people strolling about. Took a slight detour and went to Alexander Nevsky Cathedral – another Russian Orthodox church. Beautiful gold spires. The church was closed but I enjoyed walking around the outside. I went to the far end of the promenade along the Black Sea. Found one of the rivers that flows from the mountains to the sea and walked far inland along the river. Lots of shops. I stopped several times and listened to sidewalk musicians – a Russian folk guitarist, a classical guitarist, and an accordionist. Really enjoyed that.

Then walked back toward the ship and went the other way to Massandra Beach – the largest beach in Yalta. A very, very rocky, pebbly beach – looked uncomfortable but it was packed. Massandra Palace is close by which was the home of Tzar Alexander III but I didn’t get there.

Headed back to the ship a little after 6. Ran into the San Diego couples and we caught up on the days touring activities. I had some wine, showered and went for my pre-dinner cocktail at 8 in the Lounge but David wasn’t there. Talked to a couple from Rhode Island for a while then headed to the dining room at 8:30. Jeffrey from Manila was my waiter again. There is a huge BBQ out by the pool so many people were eating there, but I enjoyed the dining room and ordering from the menu. Again it was good but nothing special.

After dinner I went back to the Lounge and listened to 2 sets by David – he is very entertaining and funny. Made several requests which he played – at least sort of played. He stops frequently in his songs to banter with the audience or tell stories where are entertaining.

Off to bed about 11:30 and put the DO NOT DISTURB sign on my door. I’m going to rest my knees and feet tonight.